Supplies:

Eye Candy 5 Impact: Free Trial CLICK HERE
My zip: Paperclip preset shape for PSP and PS, SK Paperclip Bevel, Sample patterns DOWNLOAD HERE

* Place the SK Paperclip Bevel.f1s into the Bevel folder of Eye Candy 5 Impact.
*Copy and paste the psp paperclip shape into your Preset Shapes folder, wherever that may be on your computer.
* I've also included a paperclip PNG file in the zip as well for anyone who can't use the PSP or PS shape. Just turn it into a brush and follow the tut.

* This tut is done with coloured swatches to use for a pattern over your paperclip. You can download some coloured tiles from various sites on the net, or you can use my striped paper tut to make your own. You can also just use a plain colour or a gradient instead of a pattern, but I think using a pattern is more interesting. I've included a few sample swatches for you to use with this tut for now.

* First, we'll make the basic paperclip, then we'll move on to the tulip topper.

1. Open up a 400w x 550h transparent image.

2. Choose a pattern from one of the sample images in the zip. I'm using my All Day Sucker pattern for this tutorial.

3. Set it as your foreground and background pattern in the materials palette. I've chosen to use a scale of 50% and an angle of 40 for this. You can decided for yourself what settings you think you'd like.

4. Click on your Preset Shapes tool on the left, and find SK Paper Clip from the dropdown box. Anti-alias is checked, Create as vector is checked, line style is Solid, and a Width of 1.

5. Hold down your Shift key and drag your cursor from the top left corner, and release the mouse when your paperclip reaches the size that you want it to be. Be sure to leave enough room at the top to fit in our tulip topper. Here's my example:



6. Now, we'll give our paperclip a shiny bevel. Go up to the Effects tab, down to Plugins, and find Eye Candy 5 Impact, and choose Bevel. Find in the list SK All Day Sucker Paperclip, click it once to select it, then hit OK. This is what I have so far:



That's it for that part, now on to the tulip topper. I used Whisper's EZ Tulip tutorial to do the flower topper. You can go to her site Whispers Corner, and do pages 1 & 2 to get the tulip made.

* The colour I used for my topper is #CA3166.



7. When you've completed the tulip tut, I tubed mine so that I could resize it to the proportions that fit the size of my paperclip. Next, just copy and paste it onto your paperclip layer, center it on the top of the paperclip, and merge visable your layers.

That's it, we're done :)

* Tip: You can also do patterns for your tulip topper.



TOU:

If you do this tutorial, your end result is yours to do whatever you wish; give it away as a freebie, use it as part of a kit, or sell it for profit. A mention or a link back here would be appreciated but is not mandatory. Please do not share the supplies or tut through email or any other means, send them here to my blog to get the supplies and tut for themselves.

The tulip image on the top of the paperclip is not my design. It belongs to Whisper's Corner and I can not find any terms of use on it, so to be on the safe side, do not use it for commercial purposes.

This is what we'll be making:





Supplies:

My Zip Includes: tube, striped swatch, my EC 5 Impact Bevel. DOWNLOAD HERE.
Mura's meister clouds plugin: DOWNLOAD HERE
EC5 Impact Free Trial: CLICK HERE
Texturizer Plugin: DOWNLOAD HERE

* Place the SK Yellow Frame Bevel.f1s into the folder named Bevel in the Eye Candy folder on your pc.
* Place the Mura's Meister plugin into your plugins folder on your pc.
* Place the Texturizer plugin into your plugins folder on your pc.


1. Open up a transparent image large enough to fit whatever size frame you want.

2. Set your foreground colour to #F0DC99 and your background colour to #F8E7B2. I'm using 2 shades of yellow here, but feel free to use your own colours.

3. Open up a 400 by 400 pixel transparent image. We'll be using this as our frame pattern.

4. Go up to the Effects tab, down to Plugins, then find Mura's Meister and choose Clouds. Click the Reset button in the bottom right hand corner to get the default settings, and use those. Click OK. You should have this:



5. Go up to the Effects tab, down to Plugins, then find Texture and choose Texturizer. Use these settings:



6. Set your new yellow texture as both your foreground and background pattern; Angle 0 and Scale 100%.

7. Click on your Preset Shapes tool on the left and set it to Rectangle. Anti-alias is checked, Create as vector is checked, Line Style is Solid, and Width of 1.

8. On your large transparent image we opened up in the beginning, draw out a square or rectanlge the size you want your frame to be.

9. In the Layer Palette on the right, right click on Vector 1 and choose Convert to Raster Layer.

10. Go up to the Selections tab, choose Select All, then Float, then Defloat. You should have marching ants all around your image.

11. Go back to the Selections tab, down to Modify, and then choose Contract.

* The number of pixels you enter, will depend on how thick of a border on your frame you want. I've contracted by 50 pixels. If you want a thinner border, then choose a smaller number, if you want a thicker border, use a bigger number. Hit OK.

12. Hit the Delete key on your keyboard. You should have something similar to this:



13. Deselect your image. (Selections tab, Select None)

14. Now we are going to give it a bevel. Go up to the Effects tab, down to Plugins, then fiind Eye Candy 5 Impact and choose Bevel. Find my yellow frame bevel, select it, then click on the OK button. This is what you should have so far:



15. Open up SK Yellow Spring Swatch from the zip and set it both as your foreground and background pattern. Scale is 100 and Angle is 45.

16. Click on your Preset Shapes tool on the left and set it to Rectangle. Draw out a square or rectangle, making sure it covers part of your frame edges and the top an bottom. See picture below:



17. In the Layers Palette on the right, right click on Vector 1 and choose Convert to Raste Layer.

18. Move that layer below your frame layer.

19. Make sure your striped layer is the active one in the layers palette (hightlighted blue), and go up to the Selections tab, Select All, down to Float, then to Defloat.

20. Back up to the Selections tab, down to Modify and choose Contract.

* Again, the number you put in here is entirely up to you. I've set mine to contract 40 pixels, but feel free to choose your own number.

21. Hit the Delete key on your keyboard to get rid of the middle section. This is what mine looks like at this point:



22. Now, we need to give it a slight bevel. Go up to the Effects tab, over to 3D Effects, then to Inner Bevel. Use the settings below:



22. Click once on your striped layer to make it active, then go up to the Effects tab, down to Plugins, then to Texture, and then to Texturizer and give it the same texture as in step #5. Here's mine so far:



23. We need a tiny drop shadow between our frame and striped layer, so click on your Frame to make it active.

24. Go up to the Effects tab, then to 3D Effects and over to Drop Shadow and use these settings. Make sure to have the checkmark in the box that says Shadow On A New Layer.



25. Click on your Eraser Brush in the palette on the left. Use the default round brush at the default settings.

26. Click on your shadow layer in the layers palette on the right to make it the active layer. Erase all around the edges of your frame to get rid of the extra shadow that was created. We don't want any of that on there.

* At this point, your frame is pretty much done. All you need to do now is put a few embellishments on it and merge visable all layers.

TOU:

If you do this tutorial, your end result is yours to do whatever you wish; give it away as a freebie, use it as part of a kit, or sell it for profit. You may not make this into an action or script to give away as a freebie or to sell for a profit. A mention or a link back here would be appreciated but is not mandatory. Please do not share the supplies or tut through email or any other means, send them here to my blog to get the supplies and tut for themselves.

The flower pot and ladybug images are not mine. I do not know who's they are, they had no tou's attached, so to be on the safe side, if using this tut for commercial purposes, do not use these 2 images.

Supplies:

Eye Candy 5 Impact: Free trial CLICK HERE
Texturizer plugin: Download Here
My zip: swirl brush, pink rose, flower tube, green spring frame.f1s bevel Download Here

* Place the green spring frame.f1s into your EC 5 Impact bevel folder.
* Tube your 2 flower images
* Make a brush out of the swirl image.


1. Open up a 400 by 400 transparent image.

2. Set your foreground colour to #77B26E and your background to #B8D3B1.

3. Go up to the Effects tab, down to Plugins, then to Mura's Meister, then choose Clouds. Use these settings:



You should get something very similar to this:



4. Go up to the Effects tab, down to Plugins, over to Texture, then choose Texturizer and use these settings:



5. Open up a new transparent canvas, as big as you want your frame to be.

6. Set your foreground and background as the green textured image we just created. Angle 0 and Scale 100.

7. Click on your Preset Shapes tool on the left and set it to Rectangle. Anti-alias is checked, create as vector is checked, line style is Solid, and a width of 1.

8. Draw out a square or rectangle the size you want your frame to be.

9. In the layers palette on the right, right click on Vector 1 and choose Convert to Raster Layer.

10. Go up to the Selections tab at the top, choose Select All, Float, then Defloat.

11. Go back to the Selections tab, down to Modify, and then to Contract. Set the number of pixels to whatever looks good to you. I'll be contracting mine by 50.

12. Hit the Delete key on your keyboard.

13. Go up to the Selections tab and choose Select None.

14. Now for the bevel. Go up to the Effects tab, down to Plugins, find Eye Candy 5 Impact, and choose Bevel.

15. Find SK Green Spring Frame from the list, click it once to select it, then hit the OK button. This is what I have so far:



16. Go up to the Layers tab at the top, and choose New Raster Layer.

17. Click on your Brush tool, and from the dropdown menu, find your swirl brush from the zip. Choose a size appropriate for your frame. I'm using a size of 75 and make sure the Opacity is set to 100%.

18. Set your forground colour to #69965E.

19. On your blank layer, click down in the same spot twice to get a nice clear swirl.

20. Copy and paste as a new layer, that swirl onto your canvas 3 more times. You should always click on the Original, then copy and then paste, click on the original, then copy and paste ect..... It's just better to duplicate the original than to continuously copy a copy. (hope that made sense lol)

21. With your Mover tool, place each one in a row along the top portion of the frame. Don't worry if it's not even just yet, you'll be fussing with the spacing later. This is what I have so far:



22. I didn't want all of my swirls to be going the same way, so I've mirrored every second one of them. Click on the second swirl and go up to the Image tab and choose mirror. Put it back into it's place. Click on the last swirl and do the same. Here's the changes:



23. Click on your Brush tool again and change the Rotation to 85. We are not going to be copying and just rotating the first swirls we did because when you rotate something, it tends to blur and become less sharp.

24. Go up to the Layers tab and choose New Raster Layer.

25. Working on the Right side of the frame, click twice with your swirl brush.

26. Copy and paste that Original swirl 4 more times onto your canvas.

27. Again, mirror every second one of those swirls.



28. Go up to the Layers tab and choose New Raster Layer.

29. Make the swirls the same way for the Left side of your frame.

30. This time, you need to mirror the First one in line on the left side as well as the third one.

31. Click on your Brush tool again, and change the Rotation to 185.

32. Go up to the Layers tab and choose New Raster Layer.

33. Place your brush on the bottom of the frame and click in the same place twice.

34. Copy and paste that Original swirl 3 more times onto your frame and move them into place.

35. Mirror the First and Third swirls. Don't worry about the last swirl not matching up, it is going to be hidden behind our flower. So far, mine looks like this:



Here's where you need to even out all of your swirls. You can turn on your grid to help you out with that, but I just did mine manually.

36. When you've got all of your swirls placed the way you want them, turn off the Frame layer and Merge Visable your swirl layers.

37. Now we are going to put a small drop shadow behind our swirl layer to make it a little more 3D and not so flat on the frame. Go up to the Effects tab, over to 3D Effects and then to Drop Shadow. Use these settings:



38. Click on your Picture Tube tool at the left and find the single pink rose from the zip.

39. Resize the tiny pink rose to somewhere between 15 and 20, whatever looks good to you.

40. Create a new layer over your frame image and just randomly, but evenly spaced, put some of the tiny pink roses in and around the swirls. Make sure you put each one on a new layer so that you can move them separately.

41. When you are satisfied with your placement, hide the frame and the swirl layer and merge visable all of your tiny roses.

42. Go up to the Effects tab, over to 3D Effects and then to Drop Shadow. Use the same drop shadow as in step #37, but change the colour from dark green to #221D12. Here's mine so far:



43. When done that, click on your Picture Tube tool again and find the pink roses cluster from the tube list.

44. Create a new layer again, resize the rose cluster appropriately for your frame and plop it down onto your blank layer. Move it to the bottom right hand corner of your frame. I also erased off a leaf or two and part of the baby's breath.

45. I rotated mine 80 degrees to the right, but you don't have to. Go up to the Image tab, over to Rotate, then to Free Rotate. Put the green dot beside the word Right, the dot beside the word Free and type in 80.00 and hit OK.

46. The image becomes a bit fuzzy when rotating anything, so use the Unsharp Mask to clear it up. Go up to the Adjust tab at the top, down to Sharpness, then over to Unsharp Mask. Use these settings:



47. Give it a little shadow too. Use these settings:



48. Right click on any layer in the layer palette and Merge Visable your layers.

And we're done :)

TOU:

If you do this tutorial, your end result is yours to do whatever you wish; give it away as a freebie, use it as part of a kit, or sell it for profit. You may not make this into an action or script to give away as a freebie or to sell for a profit. A mention or a link back here would be appreciated but is not mandatory. Please do not share the supplies or tut through email or any other means, send them here to my blog to get the supplies and tut for themselves.

The 3 rose cluster was a random tube that was sent to me a while ago and I do not know where it came from, so it's up to you if you use it for commercial purposes.

Supplies:

SK Floral Swatch which you can download HERE


1. Open up a new transparent image to whatever size you want your background paper to be.

2. Set your foreground colour to white and your background colour to #918573.

3. Click on your background properties box and then click on the Gradient tab at the top.

4. From the list of gradients, choose the one called foreground-background, Style is linear, and Repeats to 8, Angle is up to you, but I have mine set to 166.

5. Click on the flood fill tool on the left and fill your canvas with your gradient. Your canvas should now look like this:



6. Click on your Mesh Warp tool on the left and set the Horozontal and Vertical at 3, Symmetric and Show Mesh are both checked, Edge Mode is background, Draft Quality is High, and Best Quality is checked.

*Note that the nodes that are all around the top, bottom, and sides can't be moved inward or outward.

7. Put your cursor on one of the square nodes not around the outside of your canvas and pull up, down, or to the side slightly, and watch your canvas change. Do this a few more times with a few more nodes to smoosh it around a bit on the page.

* Hold down your Ctrl or Shift key while moving a node to shift the placement of the node on the canvas. This is what I have so far:



8. When you've done that a few times, up top, to the left of your Mesh Horozontal settings, you will see a blue checkmark. Click that to accept the changes made on your canvas. If you don't like what it turned out to be and want to start over, click the red x and redo it. Don't worry too much how it looks, because this is just the first step, we aren't done smooshing it around.

9. Now, click on your Warp Brush from the palette on the left. Warp Mode is Push, Size about 500, Hardness 0, Strength is 67.

* You can play around with these settings once you get the feel of what we are doing here.

10. Open up the SK Floral Swatch from the zip file and set it as your foreground pattern.

11. Go up to the Layers tab and create a New Raster Layer.

12. Flood fill your blank layer with the floral pattern.

13. In the layers palette on the right, change the Blend Mode of the floral pattern layer to Multiply.



This is what mine looks like now:



14. In the layers palette, click on your gradient filled layer to make it active.

* You may want to duplicate your image here just incase you warp it way too much and don't like it. You can then just use the original to start over.

15. Click on your Warp Brush agian, same settings and start warping your image around slightly to see the changes. Make sure you are NOT on the floral layer or your pattern will get distorted.

* Don't forget to click the blue checkmark at the top every once in a while to accept your changes on your canvas, because if you don't and you click the undo button or the red x, you will loose whatever changes you"ve made to your canvas.

I'm working with a 450 x 450 image in order to get these screenshots to fit on my page, so I just smooshed my image around a little bit, but this is my result.



16. When you're satisfied with what it looks like Merge Visable your 2 layers.

* The floral patterned swatch we used is a pretty light colour and the background colour we used to fill the warped layer wasn't very dark either. If you were to use a darker patterned swatch, you would have to make the background colour to fill the warped layer a lot darker so it will show through on your pattern layer.

* Play around and see what you can come up with.
* add a faint texture
* apply a filter
* duplicate the image, change that blend mode to muliply, merge layers, and change the brightness/contrast to get a darker version like in the picture below:



Use my Striped and Geometrical Papers Tutorial to make matching papers.




TOU:

If you do this tutorial, your end result is yours to do whatever you wish; give it away as a freebie, use it as part of a kit, or sell it for profit. A mention or a link back here would be appreciated but is not mandatory. Please do not share the supplies or tut through email or any other means, send them here to my blog to get the supplies and tut for themselves.

Supplies:

Place both of these plugins into the plugins folder, wherever that may be on your computer.

Download Mura's Meister Clouds HERE
Download texturizer plugin HERE


1. Open up a fairly large transparent canvas, a bit bigger than you want your paper to be so we have some room around the edges.

2. Click on your Selection tool, and draw out a rectangle shape the size that you want your paper to be.

3. Set your foreground colour to e2c9a0 and your background colour to f9ebd7.

4. Go to the Layers tab and choose New Raster Layer.

4. Go up to the Effects tab at the top, then down to Plugins, then find Mura's Meister,then choose Clouds. Use the settings below:



You should have something similar to this:



5. Go up to the Select tab, and choose Select None.

* Now we are going to make the edges a bit jagged, and add a few tears.

6. On the tools bar at the left, click on your Freehand Selection tool.

* You may want to add a new layer and put a darker colour background behind your paper layer in order to see your paper edges better.
This next part is totally up to you to decide how much or how little you want your paper to have jagged edges and tears. I'm just going to tear off a corner, and maybe take a few little pieces out here and there.

7. Make sure your paper layer is selected in the layers palette. Click and hold down your Freehand Selection tool once on the outside of your paper layer and just drag your cursor to outline the top left corner of the paper. It doesn't matter what the lasso looks like on the outside of the paper corner, but the part that is actually touching the paper is how jagged it will look once you delete the actual corner.



8. Hit the Delete key on your keyboard.

9. Go up to the Select tab, then to Select None.

10. Repeat these steps as many times on different parts of your paper to get the ripped or jagged look that you want. I did a few more and this is what I ended up with.



11. Select your Lighten/Darken tool, use the Default soft round brush, increase the brush size to somthing like in the picture below.

Hardness is 27, Step 25, Density and Thickness is 100, Opacity is 30. Just give your canvas a few strokes to give it a bit of shade. Use your Right click for the darkening shade.



13. Still working with your Burn tool, decrease the brush size to about 30 and change the Opacity to about 38%. Do some swipes around the edges of your paper to burn those. This is what I ened up with:



* Stains, scratches, and dirt brushes are a good way of grunging up your paper a bit, so it doesn't look so smooth. I downloaded these brushes from ariadne-a-mazed at deviantart to get some waterstains. They are in .abr format, which is a photoshop brush file, but if you go to my PSP Tutorial Blog it will explain how you can use .abr photoshop bruses with PSP.

14. If you haven't already, load the stain brushes. Don't switch to your paintbrush, we are still going to be using the Lighten/Darken tool with these.

22. With the Lighten/Darken tool still selected, choose a stain brush to use, select an appropriate size for your project, and position your brush somewhere on your page and click your mouse about 4 times in the same spot.

* Take a look at your page, if you want it darker or lighter, click the Undo button under the Edit tab 4 times to undo your water stain and try again. This is what I ened up with:



16. Continue on with your stains and scratches to dirty up your page.

17. Give your paper a texture. Go up to the Effects tab at the top, down to Plugins, then to Texture then to Texturizer, and use these settings:



This is my final result:




* You can use this technique to make old frames, polaroids, ect......... and try using other textures such as crumpled paper.

TOU:

If you do this tutorial, your end result is yours to do whatever you wish; give it away as a freebie, use it as part of a kit, or sell it for profit. A mention or a link back here would be appreciated but is not mandatory.

Supplies: 2 wood textures, guide photo, line style, photo slide, Download Here

* The line style amc round ended solid.sld is not mine and I don't remember where I got it from. If it is yours, let me know.


1. Open up a 500 x 800 transparent image. You may want to add a coloured background layer in order too see your fence post better.

* We are going to create just one picket and duplicate that to make our fence, so it's up to you how big or small you want to make this picket, but it does need to be quite long initially because there are 5 different sizes to the pickets in this frame, and we are going to be chopping the bottoms off of some of them, so make this first picket the length you want your longest picket to be. Take a look at #1 in the guide photo in the zip to understand what I mean.

2. Set your forground and background pattern to SK white wood vertical, Angle is 0, and Scale is 100%.

3. Click on your Preset Shapes tool and choose the triangle. Anti-alias and create as vector are both checked.

4. Draw out a small triangle to use as the tip of the picket. Don't make it too long or it will elongate your tip and it won't look right.



5. In the layer palette on the right, right click on Vector 1 and choose Convert To Raster Layer.

6. Click on your Preset Shapes tool again and this time choose the Rectangle. This next part is a little tricky.

7. Draw out a rectangle as long as you want your picket to be, and as wide as the triangle you drew. Make sure it is perfectly even with the width of the triangle and doesn't go past the edges. You may want to zoom in to see it more closely. Use the Object Selection tool to pull or push it in or out a bit.



* Don't worry if your fence pattern isn't lined up, we will fix that too.

8. In the layers palette, right click on Vector 1 and from the flyout choose Convert to Raster Layer.

9. If you've added a coloured background layer, hide it, and right click on either the triangle or rectangle layer and choose Merge Visable.

* You can clearly see that our wood pattern isn't lined up properly, so we need to do a bit of cloning.

10. Click on your Clone tool, Size appropriate to the size of your picket, I'm useing Size 10, Hardness 50, Step 5, Density and Thickness 100% and Opacity 100%.

11. Right click once just under the top line of our rectangle, then Left click several times horozontally directly on the line to clone it out. Then use a few vertical strokes downward to clone any missed parts. This is what mine looks like:



* Minimize this for now, we will use it a bit later on.

* If you take a look at the guide photo from the zip, you'll see that we need 2 end posts, and 2 horozontal slats. First, we'll do the 2 end posts.

12. Open up another 500 by 800 transparent image.

13. Click on your preset shapes too and choose Rectangle, and draw out a long rectangle about the same length as your single picket we just did, but make it a little bit thicker.

14. Right click on Vector 1 in the layer palette and choose Convert to Raster Layer.

15. Next, we'll give it a bevel. Go up to the Effects tab, and over to 3D Effects, then to Inner Bevel. Use the settings in picture 1 for PSP, and the settings in picture 2 for PS.





16. Click on your Preset Shapes tool, and choose Ellipse, and draw out a circle for the ball on top of your post.

17. Right click on Vector 1 in the layer palette and choose Convert to Raster Layer.

18. Give it the same bevel as the post in step #15. So far this is what I have:



19. Click on your Pen tool on the left. Create as vector is checked, Mode is drawing mode, Segment Type is Line Segments, Line Style is Amc Round Ended Solid, Width is 11, and Anti-alias is checked. Draw out a straight line not quite as wide as your post. See pic below:



20. Right click on that layer in the layers palette and Convert to Raster Layer.

21. Repeat drawing a line 2 more times with the same settings, but make each line a little smaller than the other, convert each to raster layer.



22. Give each of these 3 lines the same bevel we have been using.

23. Position these lines on top of each other, turn off all other layers and Merge Visable these three lines.

24. Position your 3 pieces one on top of each other to assemble the post and turn off your background layer if you have one and Merge Visable these 3 layers.

* The last 2 pieces are the 2 horozontal slats, but before we do those 2, you need to determine how wide your fence frame is going to be. So, open up a large transparent canvas, big enough to have a bit of room on all sides.

25. Copy and paste your Post onto your new canvas and position it to the far left of your new canvas, and close to the top of your page. We need extra room at the bottom for later.

* You may want to turn on your grid (view tab, choose grid) to get these to line up evenly.

26. Copy and paste your post again onto your canvas and position that one over to the right of your page to determine the length of your picket frame.

* I have 11 pickets inbetween my 2 posts, but you don't have to have that many, or you can have more if you choose, but take a look at the guide photo from the zip file. Each numbered picket on the left, has to match up with the length of the same numbered picket on the right. Don't do any cutting just yet. We need to put them in place first.

28. Unminimize your single picket and copy and paste that onto your new canvas and place it beside your post on the left.

29. Copy and paste the original picket 10 more times ( or less) and place each one evenly with each other inbetween the 2 end posts. Here's what mine looks like



* Now we need to make the last 2 horozontal slats.

30. Set your foreground and background pattern to sk white wood horozontal, Angle 0, and Scale 100%.

31. Working on your canvas with the other pickets, with your preset shapes tool set to Rectangle, draw out a long horozontal rectangle about the same width as your pickets, and to a length that fits in between your 2 end posts.

*You can click on your Object Selection tool on the left and use the nodes to drag the rectangle inward or outward to get the correct length. This is what mine looks like:



32. Right click on the slat layer in the layer palette and choose Convert to Raster Layer, then move that layer to the top of the pile.

33. Move that slat about half way down your pickets. See picture above.

34. Copy and paste that slat layer onto your canvas and move it down to the bottom of the pickets, leaving just a little bit of space. Here's what mine looks like at this point.



* Now we need to adjust our pickets. Take a look at the guide photo from the zip and look at the placement. Turn on your Grid (View tab, Grid) so you can get these even with each other.

35. Pull the 3 middle pickets down so that just a quarter of the top is showing.

36. There's no way really that I can give you instructions on how to posititon the rest other than to say keep your grid on and just look at the guide photo to help you out with the placement of the others. Here's what mine looks like now:



* You may want to duplicate this and save it just incase you don't like what you've done and you can just start over from here.

* Now we are going to cut away the bottoms of the pickets that are sticking out from our frame. Before we do that though, if you are inserting the 3 slide frames into the fence, you need to move the 2 horozontal slats so that it will fit your slides snuggly. Open up the photo slide from the zip just to get an idea of how big you want those slides to be and move your 2 horozontal slats accordingly.

37. Click on your Selection tool on the left and set it to Rectangle. We need to cut away the extra pieces at the bottom, but we also need to make it so that when we bevel our pickets, the bottom of them rest nicely on top of the second horozontal slat. Draw out a rectangle like in the picture below. I've turn off most of the pickets so you can see how close we come to the top of the slat.



38. Now, in the layers palette on the right, select 1 of the picket layers and hit the delete key on your keyboard. The bottom should have disappeared. Repeat this for each of the PICKET LAYERS ONLY. Yours should look like this



Hang in there, we are almost finished. We only have to do some beveling, a bit of burning, and drop shadows and we are done :)

39. Go up to the Selection tab, and click Select None.

40. Now we need to bevel the pickets and the 2 horozontal slats. Click on the first picket on the left in your canvas to select it. Go to the Effects tab at the top, then over to 3D Effects, then to Inner Bevel and give it the same bevel as we used on the 2 posts. Screenshot is below:





41. Click on the next picket on your canvas, ( we're gonna use a shortcut here for the rest of the bevels) hold down the Ctrl key and hit your y key on your keyboard. By hitting Ctrl and y on your keyboard it just repeats the last command you did, which was our bevel. Repeat these steps untill you have beveled all of your pickets, as well as the 2 horozontal slats.

42. We are going to slightly move each picket upward a litlle bit so that the bevel at the bottom is just touching the bottom slat. Select your Mover tool and push each of the 11 pickets up a tad so that the shading from the bevel shows through a little. Here's a closeup of what I mean:



43. Next is the shading part. Select your Lighten/Darken tool on the left. Use the Default soft round brush, select an appropriate size for your project, Hardness is 50, Density and Thickness is 100, and an Opacity of about 20 to 30. We just want to darken in places where the picket meets the slats. Click on each picket one by one, and run your darken tool above and below the first horozontal slat, giving it a little bit of shading. Do this for each one.

44. Next, is our drop shadow. Click on the Post on the Left to activate it. Go up to the Effects tab, over to 3D Effects, then to Drop Shadow and use these settings:



45. Click on the first picket and use our shortcut to put the drop shadow on; Hold your Ctrl key and hit the y key on your keyboard. Do this for each picket, the post on the right and both the horozontal slats.

46. If you have a background layer, hide it and right click on one of the files in the layers palette and choose Merge, then Merge Visable.

YAY, we're done.....................

TOU:

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